La Cantinetta

Super little neighbourhood Italian restaurant with a loyal following, for afficonados of Italian trattoria. Everything is fresh, the vegetables from Provence, the pasta homemade. All the basic and well-loved Italian dishes are here – scaloppine, gnocchi, vongole, risotto, etc. There is a very nice courtyard garden with leafy shade for lunch. Starters 11-16 euros, main […]

La Grotte

In Callelongue, which is a drive just out of town, and the gateway to the marvellous calanques. Originally a pizzeria, and still serving good pizza, but now the menu also covers fish and meat dishes. La Grotte has a courtyard, and inside the upstairs room looks over the calanque (sea). The service can be on […]

Le Grain de Sel

Award-winning bistro with daytime menu from 22 euros and set slightly apart from the main drag of restaurants behind the port. The menu is limited to what is local and fresh, Sardinian gnocchi perfectly complemented by a particular clam from the Rhone delta for instance. The dishes are inventive and stimulating, and the place is […]

Cafe des Epices

A simple-looking bistro by the giant olive pots set back from the port behind the Hotel de Ville, but with food that packs great flavours. The menu changes all the time and is dedicated to the Mediterranean region. You choose from two starters, two mains and two desserts. Lunch menu 28 euros, chef’s dinner menu […]

Le Chalet du Pharo

A simple outdoor restaurant, with decent food – salads, grilled fish and so on – and affordable prices. But the reason you have to go there is for THE best views of Marseille, without a doubt. The Pharo is the headland opposite the MUCEM and Fort St Jean, so you can see these beautiful buildings, […]

Pain Quotidien

If you’re looking for something familiar the service and food at this international chain are reliable and it has a well-placed terrace by the market in Place Richelme. Soups, salads, quiches and a tendency toward an expat crowd. Big wooden tables, homely decor, good ‘detox’ shakes. For a lovely, creamy scrambled eggs on toast for […]


When you get that craving for Thai this is the place to come. Choices are limited but cover the range – meat, fish, salad, noodles. Squish up with the locals on bar stools and enjoy simple authentic Thai dishes. This is a fast-food restaurant in that it is fast, they just reheat dishes but the […]