In the cleft between the North and South Luberons, the village of Lourmarin has it all – it is lively all year, has a great number of restaurants and bars, an active cultural scene, and a real sense of its own elegance. Inevitably it is also one of The Most Beautiful Villages of France, and is ridiculously picturesque and complete weekly market on Fridays.
Street life
Lourmarin is not a perched village like most of the others in the Luberon area, it is quite flat, with just a gentle spiral to the top. But what it does have is a number of cafes spilling onto the streets, perfect for watching the world go by. Lourmarin has some interesting boutiques particularly for clothes and jewellery, and one of the great weekly markets of the Luberon on Fridays.
Albert Camus
One of France’s greatest ever writers and thinkers lies at rest in the tiny Lourmarin graveyard. The government tried to have him moved to Paris, but in Lourmarin he remains, where he spent the last two years of his life. Apart from his grave and the street named after him, there is nothing of Camus in Lourmarin – his daughter still lives in his old house and wants privacy – but you can follow a Camus walk from the tourist office taking in the football ground where he cheered on the locals, and the restaurant he favoured.
Lourmarin Castle
Lourmarin Castle plays a big part in the village today, just as it did hundreds of years ago. Renaissance in style, it is a hub for concerts and other cultural events. You can visit the castle and admire its Piranesi engravings, or attend an event, from classical music to the new electro-pop Festival Yeah! (that’s actually its name).
Restaurants
Our Lourmarin restaurant recommendations:
| Title | Description |
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Place Ormeau, Lourmarin, Lourmarin
Tel: 04 90 68 38 42 Cafe Gaby is at the centre of village life in Lourmarin, physically and socially. It is a place to start the day with coffee and breakfast, or to enjoy a drink in the sun or a simple lunch and to people-watch – the centre of Lourmarin is a great place for that. Dishes are basic cafe fare – goat cheese salad, omelettes, a daily special, fries. On market day – Fridays – the typical Provencal dish of aioli is added to the menu. And the owner is a delight. |
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Rue du Temple, Lourmarin, Lourmarin
Tel: 04 90 68 06 69 Set in an 18th century mill opposite the castle, Le Moulin de Lourmarin offers an upscale dining experience. The choice of table is either in the stone vaulted dining room or the walled garden with olive trees and vines. Menus are made up according to market produce, although fish is especially strong: cod on spelt risotto; “crepinette” of ray and lobster; rosette of pike and salmon “cooked” in salt. A lunch menu at 26 euros for 2 courses or 30 euros for 3 courses offers very good value for the quality of food. Dinner menus from 38 to 68 euros. |
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9 rue du Temple, Lourmarin, Lourmarin
Tel: 04 90 79 00 46 On a cosy terrace or a plush interior, Numero 9 is leading the way for Lourmarin dining, with imaginative and innovative food. The reworked short version of bouillabaisse with octopus, shrimp and girolles is an intense treat, while the ubiquitous salmon tartare is re-awakened with a balance of Asian spices. The extensive wine list is another tick. Service is friendly, attentive and bilingual. Lunch menus at 26 and 30 euros, dinner 3 courses at 48 and 62 euros. |
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2 Rue Albert Camus, Lourmarin, Lourmarin
Tel: 04 90 68 23 33 A popular place for pizza or Italian that always seems to be full, so book ahead. Pizzas are thin crust and made in a wood-fired oven. Pasta options include the delightful ravioli with white truffle. You can eat inside around the oven or out on the pretty little square in the centre of the village, to the sound of the fountain. It’s a lovely setting with a good ambience. 3-course dinner at 24 euros, pizzas from 9.50 euros. |
Lourmarin
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