Marseille reborn

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One of the joys of being in Provence is a day-trip to Marseille. Already a dazzling city, the €7 billion spending spree to prepare it for European City of Culture status has transformed it into a must-see destination – in fact the New Yorker magazine has ranked Marseille at no. 2 in the list of […]

Auberge du Corsaire – Chez Paul

Like eating in a beach hut in a little harbour just outside of town, Chez Paul has great service, very good pizza from the wood-fired oven, simple pan-fried fish straight from the boats, and epic desserts. Average for 3 courses is 40 euros per person.

Chez Toinou

The freshest shellfish is at Toinou. You have to engage with the process, it is now like a canteen service: you queue up to buy your dinner and extras in advance, and it is delivered to your table. But the food is irreproachable, as fresh as can be. Here you understand the beauty of shellfish […]

Chez Fonfon

A Marseille institution, this is the place to try Marseille’s specialty fish dish, bouillabaisse. At Fonfon you are a few feet from the fishermen’s boats that brought in the catch, they take care to show you all the fish that will go into your bouillabaisse, and you can spend the evening just savouring this hearty […]

La Cantinetta

Super little neighbourhood Italian restaurant with a loyal following, for afficonados of Italian trattoria. Everything is fresh, the vegetables from Provence, the pasta homemade. All the basic and well-loved Italian dishes are here – scaloppine, gnocchi, vongole, risotto, etc. There is a very nice courtyard garden with leafy shade for lunch. Starters 11-16 euros, main […]

La Grotte

In Callelongue, which is a drive just out of town, and the gateway to the marvellous calanques. Originally a pizzeria, and still serving good pizza, but now the menu also covers fish and meat dishes. La Grotte has a courtyard, and inside the upstairs room looks over the calanque (sea). The service can be on […]